Zuppa di zucca – a bowl of old-world flavor passed down by our ancestors

Through the spring, summer, and well into early fall, one dish that never fails to delight is what Liz and I call squash soup or zucchini soup. Liz’s Nona called this dish zuppa di zucca.

I tried to find any historical references to this dish to no avail. What we do know is that zucchini originated in the Americas. Primarily found to have originated in Mexico and the northern regions of South America some 7,000 years ago. European explorers took this squash back with them to Europe. Zucchini were developed in Italy in the 19^th century near Milan. The vegetable appeared in North America in the 1920s , most likely brought back by Italian immigrants. This is interesting because Liz’s Nona, Lucia Bataloni, was born in Italy in 1892. Her second husband Luigi Campana came to the United States from Aqua Pendente, Italy, and was naturalized in 1919. Discovering that his dear friend Lucia had become stranded in Italy, he gained a U.S. passport and went back to rescue her in 1924. They returned to the United States where they lived until Lucia’s passing in 1984.

This short history correlates to the timing of zucchini becoming a cultivated crop in the United States. As I looked further into the origination of zuppa di zucca, I found that there was no formal history. Rather, the recipe was passed down from one generation to the next. This is exactly how the recipe for this delicious dish came to my wife Liz. Straight from the mouth and hands of her Nona Lucia.

As you would expect, there are many variations to this recipe depending on whom you ask and where their recipe came from. I have seen the recipe done with sausage, meatless, spicy, thickened, natural, with spaghetti mixed in during the cooking process, and any number of variations. The recipe that I will share with all of you is the original meatless version that Liz was taught by her Nona. It could very well be that this is the first time that this old family recipe has been put in print and shared outside of the family. My hope is that some of you will try this recipe and share it with your children so that it will continue to be passed down through the generations. I do have to admit that Liz and I do slightly different variations of this recipe. Liz’s is the original version. My variation changes only in that I like a bit more heat (red pepper flakes) and a touch more garlic. Other than that, our recipes remain true to the original as Liz was taught by Nona herself.

Nona served this dish layered over chunks of Italian bread and whatever grated cheese that was available.

We enjoy this dish as is, as a side dish with a good piece of rustic Italian bread, served over rice, pasta, or polenta, or as a complement to poultry or seafood. Any way we decided to serve it, zuppa di zucca is delicious

Murray Schulman, a columnist with the Italian-American Herald for 12 years, has worked in the food business for more than 50 years, sharing his expertise in kitchens, offices and classrooms spanning several states. He retired in 2017 as head of prepared foods for Delaware Supermarkets Inc. He lives in Pennsville, N.J.

Zuppa di zucca

Ingredients:
4 small to medium zucchini, washed and diced.
6 cloves of garlic, chopped.
2 small onions chopped.
6 medium plum tomatoes, cored, peeled and diced.
OR
1 28-ounce can of good, diced tomatoes.
1 16-ounce can of crushed tomatoes.
6 Italian parsley leaves, chiffonade.
8 fresh basil Leaves, chiffonade.
6 whole basil leaves.
2/3 cup Parmesan Reggiano, grated.
4 tablespoons olive oil for sautéing the vegetables (may need a bit more as needed).
Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil to finish.
Salt and pepper to taste.

Directions:
• Heat a large skillet over medium low heat.
• Add the olive oil followed by the onion and garlic. Sauté over medium low heat gradually until the onion and garlic start to clarify. Do not brown or burn the garlic.
• Add the diced zucchini and toss the onions and garlic to combine the flavors. Continue to sauté the vegetables slowly while stirring as you go.
• As the zucchini begins to soften, add a bit more olive oil as needed. Add the diced tomatoes, crushed tomato with a pinch of salt. Continue to slowly cook all ingredients while gently stirring.
• As the tomato starts to sizzle slightly, add the chiffonade of parsley and basil. Stir well to incorporate the herbs.
• Cover the skillet and allow to cook over low heat for 6-8 minutes or until the zucchini is very tender but still keeping its shape and some texture.
• Uncover the skillet and remove it from heat. Immediately stir the cheese into the mixture along with the reserved whole basil leaves. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.