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Which style Alfredo do you invite to your pasta bar? Be brave and have both

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Recently, our family gathered at my home to celebrate my wife Liz’s birthday. A family favorite for special occasions like this is my pasta bar. Everyone enjoys mixing and matching sauces with pasta types.

For the pasta selections, I opted for fettuccine as my long pasta, and rigatoni as my short pasta. As for the sauce selections, I had made a big pot of basic red sauce a few days prior to the party. When discussing their preferences, one family said that they loved a hearty meat sauce, and the other family said that they wanted my meatballs (as described in a previous article). So, my sauce offerings were marinara, bolognese, meatballs in red sauce, and finally Alfredo sauce. Everyone was happy.

This brings me to my topic. There is an old and ongoing argument regarding the proper method for preparing Alfredo sauce. One group argues that true Alfredo is prepared using cream and allowing the sauce to thicken from the cheese with added pasta water. The other group firmly holds to the idea that a roux is needed to give the sauce body and richness.

In my experience, both sides are correct. The best method depends on the application and use of the sauce. If I am preparing fettuccine Alfredo, or any variation of the dish, I never use a roux for the sauce. In this case, I use heavy cream (half and half may be substituted for a slightly lighter sauce), butter, garlic, and Parmigiano Reggiano. I add white pepper during the preparation process. But I wait until the end to add any salt because the pasta water is already salty. It is best to wait and adjust to taste at the end. While the fettuccine is cooking, I prepare the sauce in a pan at the same time. By the time the pasta is ready, the sauce has come together. I transfer the pasta into the sauce directly from the pasta water. This allows just enough pasta water to go into the sauce to give the finished dish that velvety richness and shine that is the mark of a great Alfredo sauce. There is no need for a roux in this application.

On the other hand, when preparing Alfredo sauce for my pasta bar, the with-roux preparation is essential. The sauce must be held in a heated container for a longer period without losing its integrity and quality. This process requires a bit more finesse.

To make this form of Alfredo sauce, I use a heavy rondeau style pan. Start by heating the pan over medium heat. To prevent the butter from browning, I start with some olive oil and then add the butter. To the butter, I add my garlic and cook for about a minute or two. To build my roux, flour is added in equal proportion to the quantity of butter and oil used. The flour is mixed well to fully absorb the oil, butter, and garlic mixture. The key is to add the flour gradually until the oils are just fully absorbed without being too dry. This step is important because it is the base for the entire sauce. In this recipe, I use half and half to form the sauce. I add the half and half while whisking continually. Keep the heat on medium to avoid any browning. As the mixture begins to thicken, add the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

Continue whisking the mixture. Patience comes into play here as the cheese must be fully melted and incorporated into the sauce. Taste the sauce and add white pepper and a touch of salt as needed. Continue stirring to completely cook out the flour. Again, adjust temperature and keep whisking to avoid any sticking or browning. Because I want my sauce to be as rich as possible, I add heavy cream that I have heated separately and slightly reduced. Of course, I am cooking pasta for the pasta bar. So, I may add some pasta water to the sauce. This will thin out the sauce and bring out the velvety richness even more. Although this is a more involved process, the result is still an outstanding finished sauce that will stand up to the rigors of holding time and texture independent of the pasta.

My conclusion therefore remains that both schools of thought regarding Alfredo sauce preparation are correct.

As I always advise, do not be afraid to try making Alfredo sauce. Patience and perseverance are the key. Once you see the results, both you and your guests will be treated to something incredibly special. Try a pasta bar at your next get-together. It is a fun and enjoyable experience for everyone. 

Murray Schulman

Murray Schulman, a columnist with the Italian-American Herald for 12 years, has worked in the food business for more than 50 years, sharing his expertise in kitchens, offices and classrooms spanning several states. He retired in 2017 as head of prepared foods for Delaware Supermarkets Inc. He lives in Pennsville, N.J.

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