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When asked to think about Italian food, people imagine the sight of tomatoes, basil and olive oil blending together on a warm bruschetta, or the steam rising from a plate of homemade pasta, or the aroma of freshly brewed coffee wafting from a moka pot. Italian cuisine, much like Italy itself, is a feast for the senses – yet, its biggest secret lies in its mesmerizing simplicity! But the story of Italian cuisine is not merely a decalogue of ingredients and recipes, but rather a complex mosaic of distinct regional identities bound together by a common philosophical approach to food – a mosaic that narrates the peninsula’s rich cultural, political, and social evolution. But how did Italy’s food evolve from an ensemble of humble regional specialties to an international culinary phenomenon? And what makes it so unique and iconic?
Everyone – Italian or not – agrees gnocchi are best when made by hand.
Let’s start with the first question. While the most stereotypical images of Italian food are associated with a rural, uncontaminated landscape (see most of the TV commercials or the images printed on Italian-style food products), the catalyst of this international miracle is more to be found in a lively, urban setting. Let’s take some of Italy’s most renowned food items – Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, Lardo di Colonnata, pesto alla genovese, Gaeta olives, ragù alla bolognese, gnocchi alla Sorrenina – what do you notice? Something really extraordinary! They all are named after the city that originally served as their origin/distribution point, or where that particular recipe was first created/made famous. Massimo Montanari, a prominent scholar of Italian food culture, has explained that the importance of cities in the development of Italian food traditions cannot be overstated. During the Middle Ages, long before Italy became a politically unified entity, cities served as hubs where not only culture and ideas, but also gastronomy could travel and evolve through a vast network of urban centers.
Italian cities, unlike those in other European countries, played a unique role as pivotal points of exchange, driving the circulation of people, new ideas, and products, contributing to the creation of a national cultural identity. So, we could ask, does Italian food have anything to do with that ideal, rural landscape that we so instinctively associate with it? Actually, it does, because the products were obviously coming from the farms in the countryside – food products flowed toward the cities from the countryside, where they were actually produced, and from the cities, they were distributed across the country. It was the urban markets that sold, branded, and helped spread these products, making local goods known far beyond their region of origin. In this mutual reinforcement, food products became ambassadors of their cities, while the cities themselves gained fame across Europe through their culinary excellence. At the same time, regional products became known and accessible throughout the peninsula, marking the birth of a national cuisine.
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Today, the global appeal of Italian food still drives much of the international food market. Every grocery store, from New York to Tokyo, is packed with items adorned with Italian-sounding names, images of the Tuscan countryside, or the colors of the Italian flag – even if the products themselves are manufactured elsewhere. What fuels this immense draw toward Italian food?
Although Italian cuisine is undeniably delicious, it is not just its taste, but the culture surrounding Italian food that captivates the world. The mosaic of distinct regional identities is bound together by a common philosophical approach to food. What is this approach like? Two adjectives will make the trick: social (or better “communal”?) and simple. Italians see food not as a mere survival tool or the satisfaction of physical need, but more as a pleasure, a celebration of life, an integral part of their daily routine, something to be savored and enjoyed with others. Meals are more than just sustenance; they are opportunities to gather with friends, family and colleagues. Take the Italian lunch break, for instance. In a fast-paced world where eating at one’s desk or skipping meals altogether has become common practice, especially in the United States, Italy still holds sacred the idea of a proper lunch break – often shared in good company, away from the office. The same applies to the simple ritual of coffee. In many countries, people sip their large coffee cups in isolation while on the go. In Italy, even a 10-minute break is an opportunity to gather with friends or coworkers for a quick espresso at the nearest espresso bar. Food in Italy is rarely an individual experience; it’s deeply intertwined with socialization – and this is definitely one its main staples.
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Italian food is also celebrated for its simplicity and authenticity. The emphasis is on fresh, high-quality ingredients – often organic – that are minimally processed and/or altered so their natural flavors can shine. Italians tend to use sauces sparingly, letting the core elements of a dish speak for themselves. This slow, thoughtful approach contrasts with the fast-food culture that dominates much of the modern world, or with the habit of spreading many different layers of sauces on a meal, where the main ingredient of the dish can’t even be recognized anymore.
For the same purpose of letting the primary ingredients speak up and not be covered by other flavors, Italians dislike the idea of a one-plate meal: they prefer to keep the flavors each food separate: there comes the pasta first, and then a second course in its own plate.
Italians are certainly very protective of their traditions. Yet, Italian cuisine is not static. Some of the iconic dishes that we now consider “purely Italian” are, in fact, the result of centuries of adaptation and cross-cultural exchange. For instance, pasta, one of Italy’s most famous exports, likely has its roots in Arab Sicily. The Arabs had probably come up with the process of dehydrating and drying the pasta, because this process allowed to eliminate bacteria and made the pasta last longer – which was essential for nomadic groups. It was the Sicilians, though, who once discovered the process, perfected its production and transformed it into a global trade. The Arab geographer Al-Idrisi in 1154 wrote, referring to a Sicilian city: “There is a town called Trabia, an enchanting place to live, abounding in streams that drive numerous mills. Trabia sits in a vast plain with many great estates, where great quantities of pasta (in Arab – itriya – spaghetti) are made and exported everywhere, especially to Calabria and other Muslim and Christian lands; many shiploads are sent. ”
Italians, in 1154, had already made dry pasta a global business and a staple of their own cuisine – yet, the first step was to being able to appreciate and acknowledge the value of a product/process coming from a different culture. This kind of transnational interchange always played a role in much of Italian cuisine, from pizza to the use of tomatoes, and up to the carbonara. Yes, even the beloved Roman carbonara may have been influenced by another culture, namely by American soldiers during World War II, who introduced Italian cooks to bacon. Over time, the dish was refined to include guanciale, a cured pork jowl, which today is, according to Italians, the only acceptable meat for the recipe.
This fascinating trajectory doesn’t stop in Italy, though: let’s take, for example, Italian-American cuisine, which, to the dismay of many Italian Americans, is not the same as Italian cuisine. Just as Italian cuisine historically developed by embracing influences from neighboring cultures, Italian-American dishes were born from the encounter between Italian traditions (mostly carried by southern Italians), and the need to adapt to the culture and the local ingredients of the United States. For example, pasta Alfredo – a dish beloved in the U.S. but relatively unknown in Italy, at least with this name – evolved from the simple Italian pasta al burro (pasta with butter and parmigiano cheese), “invented” by the Roman cook Alfredo. The pasta became incredibly popular, both in Italy and overseas. Over time, Americans added heavy cream, definitely cheaper than parmigiano in the United States, creating a richer sauce that appealed to American tastes, and was also more economical.
Similarly, chicken parmigiana offers a twist on Italy’s parmigiana di melanzane, a classic eggplant-based recipe. In the United States, chicken was often more accessible and affordable than eggplants, leading Italian immigrants to adapt this classic into a chicken-based version that has since become a staple in Italian-American dining. Speaking of staples of Italian-American cuisine, we can’t forget “spaghetti and meatballs,” which, to the dismay of Italian Americans, is not common at all in Italy, where spaghetti and meatballs (polpette) are rigorously eaten separately (if you haven’t watched the film “Big Night” with Stanley Tucci, please do so!). Both spaghetti and polpette were very dear to Italian immigrants in America; however, because of the faster-paced lifestyle and less flexible work schedules, immigrants found that combining large meatballs with pasta made for a filling, economical and quick one-dish adaptation, well-suited to feeding families in the United States.
These examples illustrate that Italian food culture really is an intricate expression of Italy’s history, geography and social fabric, both in its homeland and in its adaptations abroad. From medieval city markets that propelled regional specialties into international fame to the communal experience of dining and the adaptations from and to other cultures, Italian cuisine embodies centuries of commercial and cultural exchange. The transnational encounters that have shaped it, along with its evolution into distinct diasporic cuisines, underscore the dynamic interplay between almost sacred tradition and continuous innovation. It is no wonder that Italian cuisine continues to captivate food lovers across the globe. Its enduring appeal lies not only in the flavors themselves but in the profound historical and cultural narratives that infuse each dish, making every meal a celebration of Italian heritage and the pleasure of life.
Alessandra Mirra, a native of Rome, Italy, received a Ph.D. in Italian Studies from the University of Pennsylvania. She is coordinator of the Italian program at Rowan University in Glassboro, N.J., where she teaches courses in Italian language, culture and literature. Her publications revolve mostly around modern and contemporary Italian literature as well as Italian cinema and adaptation studies.
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